Sometimes the stories are for me, a reminder when I need it...
I stood on the balcony of a hotel on a nice summer day, late in the afternoon. The sun was casting a copper tint to the ocean and the wind was on the surf, leaving little but mushy shorebreak. I was a little sunburnt and had seen better conditions earlier in the day. It wasn't really even worth the trip down the stairs to surf in that crap. It was then I spotted something unusual, and saw other people on balconies around me looking in the same direction. There was this young boy ripping up the shore break, flying up and down the break. It looked as if there were no waves, but his rides were longer than what I got on really good waves. I shook my head in disbelief, and my neighbor on the next balcony said, that's Kelly Slater, he's out there every afternoon.
Kelly, oh yeah, he's the one that grew up to win more world surfing titles than anyone else. He's going for number 10 now, just in case I need the reminder....the surf is good enough for me.
