It's strange how we pick what we are afraid of. Like me, I'm scared to death of roller coasters and can't think of a single reason to get on one, but real life threats...well those things can be different......
My body stiffened as I listened to the words of my newly found friend. Was he kidding or was I getting ready to do something really foolish? I was kneeling down on the ground by my truck, waxing up the board I had just purchased from him. a 10'6" Mickey Munoz tuflite longboard, it was the monster longboard I always wanted to try. Perhaps this board contained the right amount of volume and curves to get me on the wave on some of the tough off-shore wind days. Today just happened to be one of those days and I had traveled 1 1/2 hours to meet him at a beach I never surf at. It was head-high and only a few guys were out. We stood there for a bit, debating going out here or driving an hour to a better spot. I just couldn't wait an hour and even though those waves out there were not inviting me to bring this huge log out and play with them, I just had to try it out then.
So, it was while I was waxing and getting pumped up about going out that I heard the words behind me: "My God, I don't think that guy even sees the shark in the face of that wave with him."
I sat back on my heels and thought, "It all boils down to if you feel lucky, punk."
I stood there for another 10 minutes and never saw a shark, went out and got stoked on two head-high waves and hauled ass back to shore...I can't really say why my heart was racing, but I gladly then drove an hour to another spot where they never heard of sharks.....
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