Irene the hurricane skipped right past us and did most of her work to North Carolina and the New England area. We were fortunate in that she passed us just close enough by to send us some good waves. Friday was the day, and it was hyped-up well in advance by our local surf forecasters, but I always knew the big day was not for me. What I wanted was the leftovers. Friday came and we were greeted with photos of amazing surfers on waves that looked photoshopped, not like Florida waves at all.
Saturday, my friend and I headed out early in the morning to a spot that was protected and more likely to offer something we could ride on our longboards. There were plenty of surfers in the water by 8am, but the waves didn't look all that daunting, at least until I paddled out during the middle of a set. I knew this wasn't a normal day, when on the way out, I had a perfect opportunity and chickened out at the last minute. After a bit, I figured them out and had a great morning of riding some waves that really had some juice to them for a change.
The best part is that the conditions were the kind that usually spell SKUNKED for me. sizeable waves and a hard off-shore wind that makes them difficult to catch until the last minute. It seems that the board I have been riding for the last year has turned into that board that fits me just right...too bad it took 40+ years to find it!
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